na wat speur werk kwam ik op een site, en die site beschrijft precies wat mijn blokkie inhoud,

voor de andere geintresseerde zal ik de tekst even kopieren.

The early 1.5 block (76.5mm bore) is a bad block to use for any purpose.
At Drake, we used to tell people to use them as anchors. They can't
be bored out even to 79.5mm because of the lack of proper water
passages at the bottom of the cylinders. Technically, they aren't
siamesed together at the bottom.

The 1.6 & 1.7 blocks are dimensionally identical. Most blocks stamped
1.7 actually came from the Dodge Omni. VW used a 'generic' block for
its own 1.7's. The block was labeled simply 'H' and is considered the
best all around block for building a high performance motor that uses
a 1.6 head. The H block can be bored out to a maximum 83mm, and take
a maximum 94.5mm stroke crankshaft. It should be noted however, that
even putting a 90.5mm crank in this block requires some machining to
allow the connecting rods to clear the side of the block - thus
rotate without hitting the block. For the 90.5 crank, you're looking at
a couple hours labor - minimum. Any crank larger, requires much more
machining - usually to the block, rods, and possibly the crank
(see cranks below).

On the 1.6/1.7 (henceforth referred to as 'the H block') block, oil is
returned back to the sump via two oil galleys at the rear of the block,
and a single one in the front.

The 1.8 block has the same basic outer dimensions as the H block, but
in reality, the block is a complete redesign. The most noticeable
difference is a larger main oil galley at the front of the block,
accompanied by a second, somewhat smaller, galley not found on the H
block. The 1.8 block is also a little larger internally. Only slight
machining is required to clearance for large stroke crankshafts.
Like the H block however, the 1.8 can only be bored to 83mm.

I guess now is the time to point out that boring to 83mm is not
recommended. By doing so, you must junk the block when it comes time
for the next rebuild. By boring to 82.5mm, you have two rebuilds before
the block must be junked - 82.75, and 83mm.

At Drake, we have found that it makes no difference where the block
was manufactured - quality control is very good. I was constantly
plagued with questions, and scepticism regarding the blocks made in
Mexico, or Brazil. I never saw blocks from anywhere but the former
two counties, and of course, Germany.

voor een complete uitleg over alle vw motoren hoe het beste te tunen, en veel informatie over de oetinger motor, vind je via deze link/website

http://ffp-motorsport.com/tuning/collins2.php